Oenofraud

Slate and the New Yorker on the problem of fraud, and the related but distinguishable issue of changing consumer expectations about what a label means, in older wines. If a now-famous vintage was made very differently 50 years ago, including having other grapes added, or if it was "refreshed" with newer wine as was apparently customary until recently, is it really the same wine? You would think, with all the fuss about designations of origin in wine, these practices would be heavily regulated, but they don't seem to have been.