Dwyer v. Allbirds, Inc., 2022 WL 1136799, No. 21-CV-5238 (CS) (S.D.N.Y. Apr. 18, 2022)
Allbirds makes shoes
from wool. Dwyer, a customer, challenged Allbirds’ advertising, which focuses
on the shoes’ environmental impact, e.g., “Sustainability Meets Style,” “Low
Carbon Footprint,” “Environmentally Friendly,” “Made with Sustainable Wool,”
“Reversing Climate Change ...” and “Our Sustainable Practices.” Allberts uses a
life cycle assessment (LCA) tool to estimate its products’ carbon footprint, which
it defines as “the kg CO2e emitted to create our products.” Defendant also
“measure[s] other greenhouse gases, like methane, and convert[s] them to CO2.” Defendant
states that the average carbon footprint of its products is 7.6 kg CO2e, and
provides individual carbon footprint figures for particular products, with
emissions from materials accounting for the most significant component. It says
that “Allbirds transportation emissions are calculated separately and our
entire footprint is offset to zero.”
Dwyer alleged that this
was misleading and brought NY claims.
First, the
advertising was allegedly misleading because its use of the Higg Material
Sustainability Index, a standard developed by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition
to measure the environmental impact of apparel materials, addresses only raw
materials and lacks standards for comparing different materials. The SAC itself
allegedly recognizes these limitations and “is revamping the Higg MSI to
incorporate ‘product level environmental impacts.’ ” Dwyer also criticized
Allbirds’ LCA tool for assessing only the carbon footprint of each product, not
other impacts of wool production, including on water, eutrophication, or land
occupation. If Allbirds calculated the carbon footprint from sheep farming
overall – including items such as methane emitted by sheep and runoff of
chemicals used in cleaning or pesticides – as opposed to the carbon footprint
from its products, the carbon footprint figures would allegedly be
significantly higher. The LCA tool also allegedly uses data from several
sources, and there are unspecified “discrepancies in industry-sourced data,” allegedly
“render[ing] it unreliable.”
But Dwyer failed to
allege material misleadingness. Criticizing the tools’ methodologies didn’t identify
a false, deceptive, or misleading statement about the shoes. Dwyer “does not
allege that the calculations Defendant provides are wrong or that Defendant
falsely describes the way it undertakes those calculations.” Disagreement about
what measurement to use didn’t plausibly plead material misleadingness, and the
allegations about unreliability were too vague besides.
Dwyer didn’t allege
that a reasonable consumer would expect Allbirds to use a different calculation
method or would be misled by the use of LCA/Higg MSI. Allbirds describes the exact components of the
calculation in its advertising, and Dwyer didn’t allege that it wasn’t doing
the advertised calcuations. Allbirds never claimed that it includes methane
emissions from land occupation or eutrophication, or that it accounts for the
entire life-cycle of wool production. Nor did Dwyer allege that a reasonable
consumer would expect a carbon footprint calculation for a shoe manufacturer to
include non-atmospheric inputs, such as land occupation and eutrophication, or
to include carbon generated from the production of raw materials before they
come into the manufacturer’s hands.
Nor did Dwyer allege
that Allbirds had special knowledge it needed to disclose. “Defendant clearly
did not alone possess the allegedly omitted information, given that Plaintiff
cites to environmental researchers, PETA, the 2017 Pulse of the Fashion
Industry Report, ‘industry sources,’ and the United Kingdom’s House of Commons
Environmental Audit Committee as discussing the environmental impact of the
wool industry and sheep farming.” The allegation that “the onus is on
Defendant” to not omit this information because “[r]easonable consumers are not
likely to know of eutrophication and methane emissions from sheep,” was
insufficient; “[t]here is no obligation under GBL § 349 or § 350 to provide
whatever information a consumer might like to know,” and again, Allbirds
disclosed how it calculated emissions, based on the production, extraction,
processing, and packaging of raw materials. “Plaintiff provides no basis to
find it plausible that a reasonable consumer would expect that calculation to
include non-atmospheric effects or effects from the farming that precedes the
production of the raw materials.”
Animal welfare-based
claims also failed. Dwyer alleged that Allbirds’ depictions of “happy” sheep in
“pastoral settings” rested on “empty welfare policies that do little to stop
animal suffering.” But Plaintiff But Dwyer didn’t identify any
misrepresentations. For example, Allbirds ran ads that show sheep in a field,
one of which says, “What if every time you got a haircut they made shoes out of
it? That would be pretty cool,” and the other of which says, “Behind every shoe
is a sheep. And behind every sheep, is another sheep, probably.” But “[t]hese
ads, which are obviously intended to be humorous, make no representations at
all.” Nor did Dwyer, by citing evidence
that there was cruelty to sheep at over 100 large-scale operations, plead
anything about the wool Allbirds used. Allbirds also touted its “use of
discarded crab shells as ‘better for the planet,’” which was allegedly false,
deceptive, and misleading,” because the crab industry is “inherently harmful,” given
endangered whales being caught in crab fishing gear and the effects of climate
change on crab populations. “These general, industry-wide criticisms of the
crab business do not begin to suggest that Defendant recycling the shells is
not better for the planet than leaving them as trash.”
Dwyer did
specifically criticize Allbirds’ certified wool supplier, but none of her
criticisms plausibly suggested that the sheep from which it gets its wool are
treated cruelly. She alleged that sheep at certified farms didn’t receive
individual care, “but no reasonable consumer would expect farm animals to
receive such care, and in any event the lack of individual care hardly shows
inhumane treatment.” Criticism of the certifier for not auditing as frequently
as PETA would like, not posting its standards online, working in countries
“where animal welfare standards are routinely ignored,” and certifying only
farms themselves, not those involved in the transportation or slaughtering of
sheep, did not show deceptiveness. “At most these allegations suggest that a …
certification is no guarantee that animals at the farms it certifies could
never be treated cruelly, which is not enough to render plausible the
allegation that Defendant made a materially misleading statement when it
allegedly described its wool harvesting practices as humane.”
Allbird’s statement
“Our Sheep Live The Good Life” was classic puffery.
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