Kent v. Conopco, Inc., 2025 WL 3296002, No. 25-cv-03660-JCS (N.D. Cal. Nov. 26, 2025)
The court allows a claim against “Naturally Derived”
personal care products to proceed. “There is no asterisk on the front label
linking the claim to a definition elsewhere on the front or back label; nor is
there a definition of the term ‘Naturally Derived’ on the front label.” The
back label does purport to describe what “naturally derived” means.” E.g.: Love
Beauty & Planet Plant-Based Vanilla Body Wash’s back label says, ‘92% of
our formula is naturally derived, meaning it’s unchanged from nature or keeps
over 50% of its original structure after some processing. This includes water
and ingredients from plant, mineral and fermentation sources.’ ”
For some of the products, “naturally derived ingredients” in
the list of ingredients are denoted with an asterisk. Plaintiffs allegedly
falsely or misleadingly identify synthetic ingredients as naturally-derived,
including cocoamidopropyl betaine, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium methyl
cocoyl taurate lauric acid, citric acid, and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine,
cetearyl alcohol, and behentrimonium chloride. Many of these ingredients are
allegedly non-naturally occurring chemicals made by chemically modifying
naturally-occurring plant oils.
The products are allegedly “predominantly composed of
ingredients produced using industrial chemical processes.” By way of example,
the complaint alleged that, “of the twenty (20) ingredients listed for the Dove
Men + Care Eucalyptus and Birch 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner, fourteen (14)
are industrially-produced chemicals that most consumers would not identify as ‘natural’
or ‘naturally derived,’ including one (citric acid) produced using industrial
fermentation processes.” Plaintiffs alleged that “[s]imilar analyses hold true
for all the ‘X% Naturally Derived’ Products.” They also alleged that the claims
would be false even if they were based on ingredient weight.
Conopco allegedly used the British Standards Institute’s ISO
16128 to make its claims. That standard allegedly “defines ‘derived natural
ingredients’ as ‘cosmetic ingredients of greater than 50 % natural origin, by
molecular weight, by renewable carbon content, or by any other relevant
methods, obtained through defined chemical and/or biological processes with the
intention of chemical modification.’ ” But, plaintiffs alleged, this standard
is a proprietary standard that is not available to the public and thus, “for
all intents and purposes, the public is entirely ignorant of how [Conopco]
calculates the percentage of ingredients that is naturally derived/natural
origin and what [Conopco] is communicating when it makes the naturally
derived/natural origin claims.”
The standard allegedly expressly states that it “is not
designed for use in labeling and product communications.” Indeed, as alleged, “ISO
16128’s definition of ‘natural origin index’ is very complicated and entirely
beyond the ability of an ordinary consumer to understand.” It is allegedly not
a government standard, but instead, “was designed solely by cosmetic industry
scientists, without involvement of any consumer advocates or persons familiar
with consumer advertising” with the apparent purpose of “provid[ing] an
expansive definition [of] ‘natural origin’ to encourage manufacturers to use
‘natural’ materials as ingredients for manufacturing.” Plaintiffs further
alleged that ISO 16128 is “inappropriate for use in labeling because it does
not require uniform calculations”: users can include or exclude added water at
will. They can also use any of three criteria: “molecular weight,” “renewable
carbon content”, or “any other relevant methods” to calculate percentage, but the
standard does not define “renewable carbon content,” nor what the “any other
relevant methods” may be. The complaint also pled that “[l]aypeople are not
versed in assessing molecular weights.”
They brought the usual
California claims.
The court found the labels to be plausibly deceptive. In the
9th Circuit, consumer protection claims can be maintained if the
front label is plausibly misleading—that is, if it’s plausible that a
reasonable consumer would conclude that the front label contains all the
relevant information and believe a false claim as a result. If a reasonable
consumer who cared about the fact at issue would necessarily conclude that they
needed to look at the back label to clarify matters, though, and the back label
clears things up, the claim is merely ambiguous and not misleading.
This is a different framing of “ambiguity” than Lanham Act
“ambiguity,” though it may not produce hugely different results in practice. A
front label is not ambiguous under consumer protection law merely because it
has more than one plausible meaning (the Lanham Act standard). “Nature Fusion” is
fatally ambiguous: “so devoid of any concrete meaning that there was
nothing ‘from which any inference could be drawn or on which any reasonable
belief could be based about’” a personal care product’s ingredients. “[A] front
label is ambiguous when reasonable consumers would necessarily require more
information before reasonably concluding that the label is making a particular
representation. Only in these circumstances can the back label be considered at
the dismissal stage.” “[F]ront-label ambiguity is determined not by whether a
consumer ‘could’ look beyond the front label, but whether they necessarily
would do so.” And context can also matter to whether something is plausibly
misleading, such as one’s background knowledge about the exotic product Manuka
honey, and whether the product is a specialty one or would be bought by a busy
consumer with kids in tow.
The consumer protection concept of “ambiguity” therefore determines
whether a claim can be pursued under state law at all, whereas the
Lanham Act concept uses ambiguity as a screen for whether evidence of actual
consumer response is required, or whether proof of falsity alone will show
deceptiveness; that is, a Lanham Act-ambiguous claim can still be litigated and
proved deceptive. By contrast, consumer protection ambiguity is more like a
puffery defense: if a claim is so mushy that it doesn’t have a specific enough
meaning to be factual on its own (without consulting the back label), then it’s
too ambiguous to sue over.
The risk—and I do think it’s a significant one—is that
courts might use “ambiguity” the same way across regimes despite the different
meaning and function of the concept in the two areas. I have argued
that courts should not be so rigid in their use of the literal/implicit falsity
divide in Lanham Act cases, and this development in consumer protection law
adds to the reasons to do so: ambiguity in consumer protection law (understood
broadly to include the Lanham Act) should be a single concept.
Back to the case at bar: This front label was plausibly
misleading, so the court declined to consider the back label at this stage. Plaintiffs
alleged that a reasonable consumer would understand from the phrase “x%
naturally derived” that the specified percentage of the product, whether
evaluated by weight or by the number of ingredients, is made of ingredients
that are not synthetic but that in fact, because of the inclusion of synthetic
ingredients in the definition of “naturally derived” used by Conopco, the
percentage of the product that is made from synthetic ingredients is much
higher than the label suggests. It was indeed plausible that a reasonable
consumer would believe that “naturally derived” means non-synthetic. In some
cases, qualifying language indicating the percentage of the product that was
plant-based can be enough to avoid misleadingness—but that depends on the
plaintiff’s theory of the case. Where the plaintiff’s theory isn’t about “100%
natural” or similar claims, the percentage doesn’t help if it’s an allegedly
false percentage. Additionally “this case involves everyday products and not
the niche product at issue in the Trader Joe’s case [Manuka honey] that
resulted in a higher standard of care from the reasonable consumer.”
Even considering the back labels, they didn’t resolve any
ambiguity in a way that avoided plausible misleadingness, given the plaintiffs’
allegations that the definition Conopco used was unsuitable and misleading.
However, plaintiffs’ omission-based claims failed. (They
were a repackaged “the back label definition is bad” theory.)
The court also refused to reject a UCL unfairness theory at
this stage based on the allegation that Conopco’s conduct violates FTC
regulations and policy set forth in the Green Guides.
However, the common law fraud and negligent
misrepresentation claims fail to state a claim under California’s economic loss
rule.