A catfish by many other names

The NYT has a feature on the raising and marketing of catfish in a global market, touching on issues of false advertising (what is a catfish?), GIs (including the use of "Cajun" on fish not raised in the US, as well as country-of-origin labeling), and branding (including US growers' decision to switch to the name Delacata in an attempt to leave the catfish wars behind).