Chanel, Inc. v. WGACA,
LLC, 2022 WL 902931, No. 18 Civ. 2253 (LLS) (S.D.N.Y. Mar. 28, 2022)
Chanel sued What
Goes Around Comes Around (WGACA), alleging trademark infringement, false
advertising, false association/endorsement, and related NY GBL claims for
deceptive/unfair trade practices and false advertising. The court dismissed the
GBL claims and held WGACA liable for infringing Chanel’s marks as to eleven
non-Chanel handbags sold as having been authorized for sale by one Chanel
factory, and one Chanel-branded handbag with a pirated serial number. The rest
had to await a factfinder.
Chanel provides its
factories with only enough supplies to make the specific number of Chanel
products that have been ordered; it does not authorize factory overruns. 30,000
Chanel labels, stickers, and authenticity cards bearing unique serial numbers
were stolen from its Renato Corti factory in 2012. Chanel has an internal
inventory system and voids such stolen or missing serial numbers. It can use
its system to determine whether the type, color, and characteristics of an
alleged product correspond with those of the genuine product Chanel
manufactured and sold under that serial number.
Meanwhile, WGACA specializes
in the sale of luxury secondhand clothing, bags, jewelry, and accessories.
WGACA purchases goods from individuals and international whole-sellers, without
asking for documentation of how they obtained title to the goods. It “guarantees
the authenticity of all products sold” by employing a team of in-house experts
who authenticate all goods before they are sold. But it does not dislcose that these
in-house experts have never worked for or been trained by Chanel. It also,
since 2017, stopped publicizing on its website the Chanel serial number of
goods it has available for sale. In 2020, WGACA added the disclaimer: “WHAT
GOES AROUND COMES AROUND IS NOT AN AUTHORIZED RESELLER NOR AFFILIATED WITH ANY
[sic] THE BRANDS WE SELL.”
WGACA also
advertises its products using a combination of its marks and the marks of all
of the luxury fashion houses that it sells. It used Chanel marks and indicia,
such as Chanel artwork and images of Chanel runway shows, in advertisements and
displays featured in-store and on its webpages, social media, and
direct-to-consumer emails. Until 2017, it also used the hashtag #WGACACHANEL in
its social media posts.
Aside from the
allegedly inauthentic/stolen goods, Chanel brought false association claims
based on emphasizing Chanel too much: WGACA’s
retail displays’ prominent use of the Chanel Marks, like a giant CHANEL
No.5 perfume bottle or CHANEL-branded cake; direct-to-consumer email
advertisements that prominently displayed the Chanel Marks, frequently in
WGACA’s stylized font; use of #WGACACHANEL in social media posts; and
non-product specific advertising, like ads for general WGACA sales, with
prominently featured CHANEL-branded items front and center Additionally, Chanel
points to WGACA’s website which uses images of and quotations from Coco Chanel
(at times stylized in Chanel’s font), and includes statements like “Buy WGACA
CHANEL- 100% Authenticity Guaranteed.”
“Chanel points to at
least one Chanel customer staying at the Plaza Hotel who saw a WGACA
advertising display and went to the nearby Chanel boutique and requested the
discount promised in WGACA’s advertisement. Chanel’s customer service call
center records have also captured similar instances of confusion on the part of
several callers.”
For false
association, there was no burden on Chanel to prove injury because lost control
over public perception of its goods or services counts as harm. I know this is
baked into the law, but: Aside from the theoretical problems with that merger
of risk and harm (a risk is not a materialized risk), there’s a separate flaw
when the posited harm comes from false association. You first should have to
establish that the false association makes it likely that Chanel lost control
over public perception of its goods and services. And the evidence that this
happens—that consumers blame brands for their partners’ misbehavior, if there
is any—is just lacking.
Confusion theory for
acts relating to genuine Chanel goods: Because of the nature of the claim,
similarity of marks, bridging the gap, quality of products were inapplicable,
and the marks were famous, which favors finding confusion. [This is just … dumb
as applied to a first sale case, just as it is as applied to a parody case. Mark
strength might, all else being equal, increase likely confusion when there are
actually two different marks in the case, the plaintiff’s and the defendant’s
similar mark. (Though for very strong marks this too is
implausible.) But the fact
that Ford is famous for cars doesn’t make it more likely that a used-car seller
will cause false association with Ford. If anything, fame may make it easier
for Ford to avoid any linkage to the used-car seller.]
Proximity of the
products: A factfinder would have to decide the relevance of new v.
second-hand.
Actual confusion: A
customer viewed a WGACA ad featuring a CHANEL-branded handbag and, believing it
to be a Chanel ad, asked for the discount to be applied at the Chanel boutique.
And multiple customers contacted Chanel customer service representatives with
inquiries about Chanel goods sold by WGACA. But WGACA argued this wasn’t
confusion as to affiliation (they are clearly known to be a Chanel product sold
second-hand) but simply over whether Chanel will honor the second-hand
discount. This was for the jury, as was Chanel’s survey and criticism thereof.
Bad faith: WGACA was
aware that use of the Chanel marks and indicia was “helpful” to driving its
sales, in part because an association with Chanel was a “value add.” “But that
fact is not dispositive because ‘[p]rior knowledge of a senior user’s trade
mark does not necessarily give rise to an inference of bad faith.’”
Consumer
sophistication: Favored WGACA.
Nominative fair use
factors: Also for a factfinder. The use of “Chanel” was probably necessary to
describe WGACA’s product, but there was a dispute over whether it used more
than necessary and whether it did “anything that would, in conjunction with the
mark, suggest sponsorship or endorsement by the plaintiff.”
Courts have to
consider “whether the alleged infringer ‘step[ped] over the line into a
likelihood of confusion by using the senior user’s mark too prominently or too
often, in terms of size, emphasis, or repetition.’ ” WGACA argued that it shows
the Chanel branded products featured in the same way as other luxury goods,
like Louis Vuitton. But, in a similar case against The RealReal, the court
relied upon the fact that “Chanel has identified no facts suggesting that The
RealReal displays CHANEL-branded goods ‘more prominently than other
luxury-brand goods,’ ... or that The RealReal uses Chanel marks in any other
capacity than to identify Chanel products as Chanel.” By contrast, Chanel
provided evidence of prominence/extra use. “For example, WGACA’s welcome email
to customers and Facebook cover photo features the Chanel marks. Its social
media uses #WGACACHANEL and also features Chanel marks and indicia. As do its
retail displays, and its direct-to-consumer advertisements, one of which featured
the Chanel mark more prominently than WGACA’s and in the WGACA stylized font,
WGACA also used Chanel marks and indicia in general advertisements for WGACA
and to advertise upcoming sales, despite not advertising any specific Chanel
product.” WGACA disputed this, but that was an issue for the factfinder.
Likewise, a
factfinder could conclude that WGACA did something that “in conjunction with
the mark, suggest[s] sponsorship or endorsement” by Chanel and has obscured the
“true or accurate relationship between” the parties, because of (1) Chanel’s
consumer survey, which found consumers perceived WGACA to be affiliated with
Chanel based on how WGACA listed Chanel products on its website; (2) WGACA’s
claim on its website and in advertisements of “WGACA CHANEL- 100% Authenticity
Guaranteed” and its inclusion of a letter or card of authenticity with its
products; (3) its yearly “Coco Chanel birthday Sale”; and (4) its use of
pictures or purported quotes of Coco Chanel on social media and on its website.
Though WGACA claimed
that it used the same type of ads for other luxury brands, it didn’t offer
evidence of such ads. TheRealReal weighed a website disclosure in that
site’s favor, but WGACA’s website had no similar disclosure until April 2020,
after this lawsuit was brought. “This factor thus favors a finding of consumer
confusion.”
Neither party could
prevail on summary judgment.
As to the allegedly
non-genuine/never subject to authorized sale items, things were simpler: “[T]he
sale of non-genuine goods creates consumer confusion and is sufficient use to
establish liability under § 1114(1) (a) and § 1125(a)(1)(A) without resorting
to application of the Polaroid factors” (cleaned up). Goods aren’t genuine “if
they do not conform to the trademark holder’s quality control standards, even
if they were manufactured by the mark holder.” And lack of conformity “can be
established by a lack of evidence, or a showing that plaintiff never generated
a record of conformity as it usually does in the course of business.” Likewise,
goods aren’t genuine “If the trademark owner did not approve the original sale”
“... or if they differ materially from the product authorized by the trademark
holder for sale.”
There were four
categories of items in this group:
First, 50 bags sold
with serial numbers that were not verified by Chanel’s internal record system,
ORLI, which chronicles every phase in the production cycle. “Chanel argues that
these serial numbers went missing before being assigned to a bag and, as a
result, the ORLI system has no notation that bags with those serial numbers
ever passed through the quality control procedure and were authorized for sale.”
But “the evidence tells competing stories of how Chanel conducts its quality
control procedures and thus the question of whether the bags were actually
subjected to them is best left for the jury.” There was some evidence that Chanel’s
internal quality control systems didn’t record everything that actually
happened. Likewise, whether Chanel authorized the initial sales was also
disputed. Chanel pointed to its lack of internal records that the bags were
authorized for sale, but “Chanel itself offers contradicting explanations of
how its internal system would record the authorization for sale of a bag that
went directly from the factory quality control processes and into the market
rather than first passing through a distribution center. WGACA also calls into
question the reliability of Chanel’s record system.”
But the claim here
wasn’t moot for lack of an appropriate remedy, since Chanel was seeking
disgorgement of profits and an injunction. Disgorgement was possible even
without egregious conduct; “there are issues of fact as to WGACA’s mens rea and
whether it acted in reckless disregard, in willful blindness, or was simply
unaware its sale was an infringement. … It may have been reasonable for it to
assume the bags’ marketability.” Although injunctive relief might be
complicated, it would be possible to require WGACA to publicize the serial
numbers on the products it sells.
Second, point of
sale items bearing the Chanel logo: Chanel claimed that the point-of-sale items
were never authorized for sale but were instead loaned to retailers as counter
decor. WGACA offered no evidence that Chanel authorized the initial sale. They
were infringing as a matter of law. “[D]isgorgement of profits and injunction
are available remedies, the applicability of which is premature to resolve at
this stage.”
Third, eleven bags
with serial numbers that were stolen from Chanel’s Renato Corti factory. [The
court drops a weird footnote saying that items made in an owner’s factory and
meeting its specifications, sold without authorization, would be infringing but
not counterfeit, which is important because of the more severe penalties for
counterfeiting. That has some equitable appeal but is not the law, and seems to
contradict what the court then holds.]
Chanel was entitled
to summary judgment on the grounds that the bags were not put through Chanel’s
quality control processes and not authorized for initial sale by Chanel, even
though there were factual issues about whether the bags were actually made by
Chanel factories.
Chanel argued that
this also constituted counterfeiting under § 1114(1)(a). “Where counterfeit
marks are involved, it is not necessary to perform the step-by-step examination
of each Polaroid factor because counterfeit marks are inherently
confusing.” Moreover, “[e]vidence that there are discrepancies between a
company’s internal product-identification information and the actual
characteristics of the contested goods is sufficient to establish a prima facie
case that the goods were not manufactured by the trademark holder and thus are
counterfeit.” There was evidence of this, but WGACA proffered evidence in
support of its argument that the bags could have stolen serial numbers and
still have been made in Chanel factories; Chanel employees could not
specifically identify issues with the authenticity of two examined bags,
including their hardware, which was significant because, in the words of
Chanel’s outside counsel, “in the vast majority” of counterfeiting cases, “we
can tell that they are counterfeits because the metal bits are not original.” A
reasonable jury could find either way, so the counterfeiting claim was not
amenable to summary judgment.
Finally, Chanel argued
that two handbags sold by WGACA were non-genuine and counterfeit because,
according to Chanel’s records, the characteristics of bags with those serial
numbers were different from the characteristics of the bags WGACA sold. There
was a genuine dispute about one bag’s status, while another was sold under a
serial number for a different type of bag and thus Chanel won summary judgment
as to that bag.
There was no basis
for holding WGACA liable for engaging in counterfeiting itself, as opposed to
selling counterfeits; “because Chanel’s cause of action cites 15 U.S.C. §
1114(1) generally, the Court dismisses these claims of counterfeiting but allows
them to proceed on claims of infringement under section 1114(1)(a).”
False advertising:
WGACA argued that Chanel failed to adequately create a fact issue on injury. Injury
can be presumed for comparative false advertising, or deliberate deception in a
two-player market, but there’s no presumption when “a misleading advertisement
does not make comparative claims about a direct competitor.” Chanel argued that
WGACA’s explicit use of the Chanel marks and the parties’ overlapping consumer
base justified presuming injury, but this was not a two-player market; other
resellers were also potential victims of false advertising.
Still, Chanel
created a genuine issue of material fact “as to whether it suffered
reputational injury due to WGACA’s false advertisement of counterfeit,
infringing, and repaired CHANEL-branded products as genuine and unaltered and
its false advertisement of CHANEL-branded point of sale items as genuine
products originally made and sold by Chanel.” Chanel’s General Manager of
Fashion stated that WGACA’s false advertisements cause reputational harm to
Chanel due to the risk that a consumer buys a CHANEL-branded item from WGACA
and “has an experience ... with a quality of product that is not up to the
standard of Chanel,” “which damages what that customer (who could be a current
or potential future Chanel customer) thinks of Chanel and its products.” [Seems
highly inconsistent with first sale, at least for the non-counterfeits.] A jury
could decide who to believe.
The NY GBL claims
were dismissed for want of injury to the public interest “over and above
ordinary trademark infringement.”